Skip to content

FREE SHIPPING FOR ORDERS $100+ U.S. ONLY

body care

Respect the Plant: The Real Formulation Story Behind Cougar

Formulator's Notes

A friend of mine hadn't had a cycle in over a year. She was settled into that, at peace with it. We were sitting at my kitchen table testing a new essential oil for the Cougar soap when the jar slipped out of her hands. She wiped it up fast and went about her day. A day later, her cycle came back.

We didn't want it to work that way

That moment taught us about how powerful and efficient herbs were.. on a hormonal level, but it also scared us a little. She had gotten a concentrated, undiluted amount of pennyroyal essential oil directly on her skin, far more than anyone would ever use on purpose. It was our proof the plant had genuine hormonal power, and proof we needed to find a gentler way to put that power into a bar of soap.

Respect the plant

Pennyroyal has real hormonal and antimicrobial effects, which is exactly why it has to be handled carefully. In its concentrated essential oil form, ingesting or overusing it has caused liver damage. That risk is specific to the pure oil, not the dried herb used in trace amounts the way we use it, but it's the reason we moved away from the essential oil entirely, according to the Missouri Poison Center.

What menopause actually does to skin

Long before that kitchen table moment, the real question started in my salon chair. Women moving through hormonal transition kept describing the same two things: skin that stayed dry no matter what they put on it, and hot flashes. Standard moisturizers were treating the dryness like it was a surface skin problem, like they just had not found the right cream. What these women needed was something that could evolve with skin that was ever changing.

That's the real starting point of the Cougar soap. We looked through herbal remedies and found evidence of women incorporating cayenne peppers in their beauty routines and diet to sooth itchy and scaly systems like those with Psoriasis.

Hydrating soap bar
Dried pennyroyal, the form we settled on after testing the essential oil.

Essential oil versus dried herb

Pennyroyal has a long history as an herb people turned to for hormonal support, going back generations, including my own mother's use of it. But her experience was a version that needed daily reapplication to keep working, and the effects faded fast. We wanted something that held up without asking someone to think about it every day.

We tested the essential oil form first and ruled it out for two reasons. The smell was genuinely off-putting to customers who tried early samples. And after that day at the kitchen table, we understood exactly how strong it was in concentrated form. The dried, cut herb gave us the same hormonal benefit our customers reported, fewer hot flashes, without the smell problem or the safety concern that comes with handling the pure oil.

Something made in nature isn't harmful on its own. It just needs to be respected, and used the way our ancestors used it, in its whole herbal form.

How the herb actually gets into the bar

We make every SoapLife360 bar using cold process, not because of Cougar specifically but because that's simply how we make soap. Cold process matters here because it lets the herbs keep their potency. Hot process can cook off the very essential oils and therapeutic compounds you're trying to deliver, so cold process was already the right call before pennyroyal ever entered the picture.

The pennyroyal goes in after saponification, once the oils and water have fully come together, added as a superfat rather than saponified into the bar itself. That means it stays as its own layer rather than getting chemically bound into the soap, sitting close to the surface where it can act almost like a gentle exfoliant and transfer onto skin during use.

People don't expect anything from a soap bar

Most people assume soap just cleans and rinses down the drain, and for a lot of soaps, that's a fair assumption. But because the herbs in this bar sit as their own layer instead of dissolving into the chemistry of the soap, they're available to your skin the moment the bar touches you. That's why we tell people not to use this one with a washcloth. The nourishment is in direct contact with skin, not something a cloth strips away before it ever gets there. Used this way, a bar of soap can deliver real topical benefit, closer to what you'd expect from a salve or a body butter than from a standard bar of soap.

Citrus and ginger soap bar
The gel stage, where pennyroyal is added as a superfat rather than saponified into the bar.

A lighter note underneath it all

Ginger and citrus round out the formula, chosen to brighten skin that can turn dull during hormonal transition, a complaint just as real as the dryness and hot flashes. It's a lighter, non-spicy scent world set against the pennyroyal, there to support the skin without competing for attention with the plant doing the heavier work.

If you want the full Cougar bundle built around this bar, from the citrus body cream to the Urban Alchemy candle, you can find it in our gift guide for the cougar in your life. And if you're curious how we think about formulation more broadly, our post on what makes a good soap and our piece on how natural skincare brands source their ingredients both dig into the same philosophy behind this bar.

Formulator's Notes: straight answers from 25+ years behind the bench.

Leave A Comment

Please note, comments need to be approved before they are published.

Welcome to our store
Welcome to our store
Welcome to our store